It’s neither a Laurent Ferrier watch nor an Urwerk, yet the signatures of both firms appear on its back. The existence of this unexpected watch defies logic because it is the joint effort of two watchmaking companies that couldn’t be more different. Each bases its identity on the opposite ends of watchmaking’s stylistic spectrum. On one side, the expression of time-honoured traditions; on the other, an anarchic effort to overturn conventions. Laurent Ferrier and Urwerk have created a piece of work that is unique, for only one-of-a-kind watches qualify to be sold at the Only Watch auction in aid of the battle against Duchenne muscular dystrophy.
This remarkable watch also offers a unique opportunity to witness two independent brands working together to produce a watch for the Only Watch 2017 sale. Laurent Ferrier has forged an enviable reputation as master of the definitive watch in the classic style. Urwerk, on the other hand, has spent the last 20 years challenging the watchmaking world with its bold originality. The result of this extraordinary association is in front of your eyes.
an exclusive alloy called Arpal+
Let’s deal with the case first. You can well imagine the perfect, almost aerodynamic, curves coming to life in the confident strokes of Laurent Ferrier’s pencil. “It’s a cleanly cut watch. My friends know my love of cars, a predilection expressed in this watch. This new creation is like streamlined coachwork, fluid and without any affront to the eye,” he explains. Such a design demanded a special material. “For that we turned to the Cendres+Métaux company in Biel.” The case was shaped from an exclusive alloy called Arpal+, specifically developed for this unique watch. Arpal+ consists of 75% precious metals and resists wear and scratches better than white gold or steel. Its colour never fades, nor does it oxidise. This alloy was first developed for the electronics industry where it is much appreciated for its strength and because it is easily worked.
The polished case of the Only Watch by Laurent Ferrier and Urwerk is what first catches the eye. It reflects light like no other and seems to sparkle. In contrast, Urwerk’s movement was created with every restraint. Unlike the case, it is almost self-effacingly colourless. The four hours satellites are in a matt pearly grey with diamond-polished outlines while the hours and minutes markers are painted in white SuperLuminova. “We undertook this project with the greatest respect for each other’s work” Felix Baumgartner declares. “We held a great number of operational meetings, setting up a dialogue and developing a friendship that is apparent in the final result. We were aiming for subtlety rather than performance” he adds.
The time is shown by four satellites, each bearing three hours numerals, which successively sweep past the track of minutes. This original and intuitive way of telling the time is aided by a cover in polyetheretherketone, a thermoplastic known as Peek, which hides the satellites that are not engaged in indicating the time. The satellites turn on a hidden carrousel, at the heart of the successive passage of the hours. It’s no easy job to engineer the smooth and silent revolutions of a module that weighs 500 times as much as a conventional set of hands. Martin Frei has the final word on this remarkable venture: “Throughout the undertaking we complemented one another perfectly, sending the ball back and forth. For example, the cabochon winding crown recalls the stripes of our satellite hours. There are many subtle ways in which we refer to each other’s stylistic codes. While Urwerk has opted for discretion, Laurent Ferrier has raised the tone. The result is perfect equilibrium.”
MOVEMENT Calibre: Selfwinding UR5.03 governed by a double turbine • Jewels: 52 • Frequency: 28,800v/h – 4Hz • Power reserve: 48 hours • Materials: Satellite hours turned on Geneva crosses in beryllium bronze; Orbital structure in Peek (Polyetheretherketone); Carrousel and triple baseplate in Arcap. • Finishes: Circular-grained baseplate, sandblasted satellites, brushed carrousel, chamfered screw slots. INDICATION Wandering hours, minutes. Numerals painted in SuperLuminova CASE Materials: Arpal+ • Dimensions: Width 40,9mm, length: 60,8mm, height: 20,7mm • Glass: Sapphire crystal • Water resistance: Pressure tested to 30m/3ATM • Strap: Sand-coloured leather, hand stitched with matching thread