This year, SIHH expanded with a few new brands to 35 exhibitors. The second day of the exhibition we made a small trip through Europe and visited the Italian Panerai, the French Cartier and Montblanc and Girard Perregaux with Swiss roots.
What’s new? Panerai switches from ETA to in-house either Richemont group movements. The Luminor Due collection comes with 8 new models on 38, 42 and 45mm case size. The Luminor collection with 6 new models, 3 in the base collection and 3 in the marina collection. As of this moment all production will be with own movements or movements from Richemont group. Let’s take a closer look at one off the novelties; the 47mm Lo Scienziato the Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio ( € 139.000) with Skeletonized calibre with blue details. The weight of the movement is only 23 grams, not much for a for a 47mm watch. The XL watch with brushed titanium case, limited tot 88 pieces, is on request also available in red, white and yellow gold.
Montblanc starts to explore its 1858 collection with 5 new models ( € 5.190,-). They all carry a new case, glass box and crown, new dials and hands as well as the case back. The starting model automatic is 40mm and the 1858 automatic chrono case size is 42mm. In our opinion, the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere is in the star of the new collection with its turning globes. It brings a tribute to the Seven Summit mountaineening challenge, which are all engraved on the case back. The calf leather bund strap, are from Montblancs own Pelletteria in Florence, Italy.
Cartier is showing some masculinity with the new Santos watches. The brand also released a do-it-yourself bracelet . You can easily change the leather strap for a metal (or gold) bracelet with the QuickSwitch system without visiting any service center. The Santos collection, with its classic rounded square design, has been expanded with a skeleton watch in masculine steel. Cartier never made a steel Santos watch before, but the job is well done. The steel Santos is a classic looking watch that shows high watchmaking without showing off; a real French understatement!
Let’s take a look at some other skeletons. Girard Perregaux has taken the three bridges concept to a next level with Neo Tourbillon With Three Bridges Skeleton. The 9400-0011 caliber has become a less is more architecture and the round titanium case has no bezel. The 80-part tourbillon, also made of titanium, weighs just 0.25 grams. At the 2017 SIHH, Girard Perregaux introduced new Laureato models, which included skeleton ladies watches. This year the brand is introducing the Laureato Skeleton Ceramic with 42×10,93 mm black ceramic case and automatic Caliber Laureato Skeleton Ceramic ( € 30.000,-). For the first time the Laureato Skeleton is entirely clothed in black ceramic.